So lately my posts have been just about my weekends. Well to be honest, my weeks are just about all the same. Get up run (usually), train (sleep), work, train (sleep), dinner (yum), and usually either going to the gym or the climbing gym. I would like to blog in the middle of the week so we'll see what comes up.
This last weekend was a good time. Franck, Reese, Ryan and Diane headed up to the East Rampart at Devil's Lake. When I got there I noticed that Brinton's Crack was open. This is the one that I have been wanting to lead for a while. with good exposure and protection this is a classic climb, one that I wanted under my belt.
The lead went well, a bit different then I remember in May back when I top-roped the climb. The climb has two "technical parts" the first being a traverse and right after that a section of hand jamming. I doubled up my protection before I headed out for the traverse. One I got to the top, I built an anchor and Reese cleaned the climb for me. After which we moddfied the anchor a bit so the others that were with us could TR the climb.
Due to the large number of people that showed up while we where at Brinton's Buttress, after we all finished we moved to the lesser climbed areas of the bluff. We found some nice climbs (Devil's Lake) 5.3 - 5.6 and I picked a line that looked fun. I started the lead and ended up placing a tri-cam on my way. (This is a first on lead for me!) The top 1/4 of the climb was pretty run out. Lots of good holds, but not really a good place for gear. However after poking around some and Franck asking if I need to borrow anything (he was on a route near by) I found a place for a #1 Camalot after cleaning out some debris. The placement was still awkward. Before I made my move up, I felt each of the caming lobes to make sure they where all in contact with the rock. After my move I got a good look at my blind placement. Looked boomer and I finished the climb. The rest of the day was spend doing some TR climbs, some I might come back and lead.
Due to the large number of people that showed up while we where at Brinton's Buttress, after we all finished we moved to the lesser climbed areas of the bluff. We found some nice climbs (Devil's Lake) 5.3 - 5.6 and I picked a line that looked fun. I started the lead and ended up placing a tri-cam on my way. (This is a first on lead for me!) The top 1/4 of the climb was pretty run out. Lots of good holds, but not really a good place for gear. However after poking around some and Franck asking if I need to borrow anything (he was on a route near by) I found a place for a #1 Camalot after cleaning out some debris. The placement was still awkward. Before I made my move up, I felt each of the caming lobes to make sure they where all in contact with the rock. After my move I got a good look at my blind placement. Looked boomer and I finished the climb. The rest of the day was spend doing some TR climbs, some I might come back and lead.
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