Scars and Goals

How often does one think about a scar? I guess it depends on it's origin...

On Sunday while I was putting my climbing shoes for a bit of bouldering I paused for a moment when I looked at my shins. There were scars, lots of them. None of them anything major, although the scar from the pine branch impaling ordeal is still not 100% healed. And that was the only one that I saw a doctor for. They got me thinking about climbs and trips of the last years. Good memories, even the times spent bitching about the weather in a pub.

They also got me thinking about future climbs. Sane or not... they have been on my mind.

Mt. Andromeda via the Skyladder route:

Image from wikisteep

Mt Robson via the Kain Face
Image from Climbing.com

Mt. Alberta via Japanese Route
Image from wikipedia

Mt. Waddington:
Image from: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/root

And on a grander (insaner) scale:

Alaska Range:
Image from wikipedia

Kids are funny

Last week I went to the middle school my wife teaches at to give a presentation to 6th Graders about climbing and more specifically my climbing adventures. We also went though how climbing gear is used when on a route. (I think they just liked to play with the ice axes)

The accelerated classes are reading a book called Peak by Roland Smith where a kid goes to climb Mt. Everest. While not very technically accurate as far as climbing goes, the book is still a fun read.

These kids have spent most if not all of their lives living in Illinois and have no clue that "normal" people actually do this kinda thing. They are used to seeing all the specials on Discovery "Climbing Everest" etc. while yes... that is "climbing". There is a lot more to the sport.

There were a few questions that I found rather brilliant.

Student: Do you want to climb Mt. Everest?
Me: No not really, to many people and to much money. Though I would try K2 or Annapurna.

Student: Have you climbed anything that we would have heard about?
Me: You have all heard of Everest, K2, Hood, Rainier and Mt. Mckinley / Denali is because they are in the news and lots of people climb them. I like to climb where there is little to no people. Although I would try one of the less climbed routes on Denali.

Student: Is the "Cussin' Crack" named that because people swear a lot on it?
Me: Yes
Students: ::giggle::

Student: What is the most dangerous place you have ever climbed.
Me: The Wind Rivers, due to it's remoteness. You have no cell phones, very few people and pretty rough terrain.

Student: What does the top of a mountain always look like a point?
Me: Because you are seeing it from very far away.

This is my second year going in and talking to the kids and talking about climbing and I look forward to doing it next year with a few more adventures under my belt.

2009 - In a nutshell

Well, I haven't been on for... oh... lets just say "Awhile".

To sum up the last year:

Jan: did my first ice climbs, had fun though it was easy WI3 about 5-6 pitches.

Feb: Got out to Devil's Lake to Climb. Had to hike though about a foot of snow and climb on wet cold quartzite. Was "fun"

March: Took a fun trip to the Red River Gorge. Made some new friends and saw some old friends. Took my largest whipper to date, about 20-25 feet. I love my #3 C4.

April: Climbed, ran, trained. Started planning for my summer trips. Canada and Wyoming.

May: Climbed, ran and trained harder.

June: Remolded the house, installed new floors.

July: Headed west to Wyoming: What a grand adventure: Full trip report here.

August: Headed up to Canada and shitty shitty weather....

September: Had fun climbing and relaxing.

October: Same as September, climbed when I could and relaxed.

November: Headed down to the Red River George and had a very humbling experience on a 5.7. And started building my home climbing wall.

December: Finished up the bouldering wall . Started to work on a home training program for myself. (Still working on it...) My dog, Scout, had mega surgery to replace her left knee. She is currently 75% recovered.

If I had to pick one picture to sum up 2009 it would be:

Summit of Pingora in the Wind Rivers range

2010 so far:

January 2010: Started climbing more serious Ice. I hope to start leading ice next season.

February 2010: First blog post since 2008....

Last Weekend:

I broke my "No Lake on Sunday" rule cause I wanted to get out, climb, relax and couldn't do it on Saturday. We hit up Major Mass an out of the way crag and Devil's Lake that boasts the tallest climbs at the lake. Well worth the effort to trek there.
First climb was Jungle Gym. The guide book says three pitches, but if you watch your rope drag, you can do it in one, using almost your rope (unheard of at the Lake). I knew the climb was long and I was tempted to take most of my rack. However, I didn't and only took about 6-7 cams and some stoppers. I wish I had taken more runners however. There is a short section of hang jams (about 2 jams total) but fun non the less. I placed my red Camalot to protect this section, somehow while climbing past it, I kicked it with my foot and it got pushed further back in the crack. (do'h) I didn't learn of this until my second came up and tried to clean it. it was a lost cause. Crap.

After lunch I did however devise a plan to get it out. The cam wasn't "over cammed" just pushed back with no way to grab the trigger. Luckily enough the cam was near a ledge that could be accessed from a scramble. And I came back after lunch while Brian and Diane where working on some anchor work.

Freeing ole' red required:

1 Metolious nut cleaning tool.
1 2' long stick
Climbing tape

2 .75 Camalots (to aid up to stuck cam)
2 runners as make shift aiders.

The cam was a bit higher then when I orgionaly placed it, So I self aided to it. I taped the nut tool to the stick and fished it out. About 30 minutes later free cam. Made my day.

I took a go at Kenosis. A lovely Devil's 5.4 It was very fun to climb and even more fun to protect.
The bottom part (see picture left) was a #2 Camalot, #5 Camalot, #6 Camalot, and two stoppers. Once above the top of this 40ish foot section was a little different. There was about 40 more feet of climbing. Protected by #1 C3+ an iffy stopper which I equalized. Then a #4 Microstopper and... a #5 stopper. Made for some fun run out. The guide book says "awakward blocks up top" Which I think translates too. Lots of mantle moves and no pro. I recall being atleast 15 feet over my last piece (this was my double anchor of the C3 and nut) at one point. More then I like to be, ever. not that I don't mind running stuff out, but I like to avoid 30+ foot falls.

Getting back in to things...

All summer I trained for Canada. Now I need to get back in to training for me. (I think of them in one of the same however) Back to running and lifting and watching my food I still have hopes of reaching 200lbs by the end of the year.

Starting with my poison ivy, these last few months have taken a toll on my body. I still have some residuals from the ivy, including some breakouts every now and then. I managed to pull a hamstring while doing squats. With the seasons changing over my knee has developed it's twice a year dull hurt while it's moving. (I had a ski accident when I was 12 and cracked my knee cap and tore a couple ligaments, was not my fault either. I was standing in a lift line and got plowed by a lady who could not stop.) It's hoping to be a good winter though.

I'm planning on hitting Devil's Lake and working on my aid climbing skills (for fun) and winter climbing skills. The winter climbing skills are in preps for (hopefully) next year trip to the Canadian Rockies.

Might even be dabbling in some vertical ice...

Back from Canada

Well, got back from Canada a few weeks ago. Due to weather, no summits. However, I did manage to key things. First. I had fun. We got in three days of climbing out of five in the area. The first day we made an attempt on Mt. Andromeda via the normal route (Grade I-II). Which the glacial ice fall defeated us (twice).
Followed by an attempt at Mt. Edith Cavell via the East Ridge (5.2). We made it to about 9000' before poor snow and ice conditions turned us back. Friday we attempt at Mt. Temple via the normal route. (Grade I). Again about 9000'+ we turned back. The following pic basically sums up my thoughts on the conditions on Mt. Temple.

The second key thing was learning. I learned a lot and I cannot wait to go back into the moutains. Hopefully sooner then later.

Less then one month:

Less then one month till I go north to take a go at the alpine climbing . I have the technical ability, now lets see if my body listens to what my brain tells it.

Training has been occupying my time more so then anything else (well work, but you know what I mean). Climbing has become about endurance, lap after lap after lap in the gym. Sometimes in boots with a pack, others just in normal shoes. Either way... it's been great training for this.

The first climb with be the East Ridge of Edith Cavell 5.2 and I think something like 5800 Feet the line we will be attempting will follow the ridge on the left skyline.

The second planned line will be the classic NW Ridge of Mt. Sir Donald. 5.4 and I think something like 1800 feet. Higher ridge on the right skyline.

It's up to mother nature now, hopefully she'll let the weather be decent for our accents and descents.