Last Weekend:

I broke my "No Lake on Sunday" rule cause I wanted to get out, climb, relax and couldn't do it on Saturday. We hit up Major Mass an out of the way crag and Devil's Lake that boasts the tallest climbs at the lake. Well worth the effort to trek there.
First climb was Jungle Gym. The guide book says three pitches, but if you watch your rope drag, you can do it in one, using almost your rope (unheard of at the Lake). I knew the climb was long and I was tempted to take most of my rack. However, I didn't and only took about 6-7 cams and some stoppers. I wish I had taken more runners however. There is a short section of hang jams (about 2 jams total) but fun non the less. I placed my red Camalot to protect this section, somehow while climbing past it, I kicked it with my foot and it got pushed further back in the crack. (do'h) I didn't learn of this until my second came up and tried to clean it. it was a lost cause. Crap.

After lunch I did however devise a plan to get it out. The cam wasn't "over cammed" just pushed back with no way to grab the trigger. Luckily enough the cam was near a ledge that could be accessed from a scramble. And I came back after lunch while Brian and Diane where working on some anchor work.

Freeing ole' red required:

1 Metolious nut cleaning tool.
1 2' long stick
Climbing tape

2 .75 Camalots (to aid up to stuck cam)
2 runners as make shift aiders.

The cam was a bit higher then when I orgionaly placed it, So I self aided to it. I taped the nut tool to the stick and fished it out. About 30 minutes later free cam. Made my day.

I took a go at Kenosis. A lovely Devil's 5.4 It was very fun to climb and even more fun to protect.
The bottom part (see picture left) was a #2 Camalot, #5 Camalot, #6 Camalot, and two stoppers. Once above the top of this 40ish foot section was a little different. There was about 40 more feet of climbing. Protected by #1 C3+ an iffy stopper which I equalized. Then a #4 Microstopper and... a #5 stopper. Made for some fun run out. The guide book says "awakward blocks up top" Which I think translates too. Lots of mantle moves and no pro. I recall being atleast 15 feet over my last piece (this was my double anchor of the C3 and nut) at one point. More then I like to be, ever. not that I don't mind running stuff out, but I like to avoid 30+ foot falls.