Scars and Goals

How often does one think about a scar? I guess it depends on it's origin...

On Sunday while I was putting my climbing shoes for a bit of bouldering I paused for a moment when I looked at my shins. There were scars, lots of them. None of them anything major, although the scar from the pine branch impaling ordeal is still not 100% healed. And that was the only one that I saw a doctor for. They got me thinking about climbs and trips of the last years. Good memories, even the times spent bitching about the weather in a pub.

They also got me thinking about future climbs. Sane or not... they have been on my mind.

Mt. Andromeda via the Skyladder route:

Image from wikisteep

Mt Robson via the Kain Face
Image from Climbing.com

Mt. Alberta via Japanese Route
Image from wikipedia

Mt. Waddington:
Image from: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/root

And on a grander (insaner) scale:

Alaska Range:
Image from wikipedia

Kids are funny

Last week I went to the middle school my wife teaches at to give a presentation to 6th Graders about climbing and more specifically my climbing adventures. We also went though how climbing gear is used when on a route. (I think they just liked to play with the ice axes)

The accelerated classes are reading a book called Peak by Roland Smith where a kid goes to climb Mt. Everest. While not very technically accurate as far as climbing goes, the book is still a fun read.

These kids have spent most if not all of their lives living in Illinois and have no clue that "normal" people actually do this kinda thing. They are used to seeing all the specials on Discovery "Climbing Everest" etc. while yes... that is "climbing". There is a lot more to the sport.

There were a few questions that I found rather brilliant.

Student: Do you want to climb Mt. Everest?
Me: No not really, to many people and to much money. Though I would try K2 or Annapurna.

Student: Have you climbed anything that we would have heard about?
Me: You have all heard of Everest, K2, Hood, Rainier and Mt. Mckinley / Denali is because they are in the news and lots of people climb them. I like to climb where there is little to no people. Although I would try one of the less climbed routes on Denali.

Student: Is the "Cussin' Crack" named that because people swear a lot on it?
Me: Yes
Students: ::giggle::

Student: What is the most dangerous place you have ever climbed.
Me: The Wind Rivers, due to it's remoteness. You have no cell phones, very few people and pretty rough terrain.

Student: What does the top of a mountain always look like a point?
Me: Because you are seeing it from very far away.

This is my second year going in and talking to the kids and talking about climbing and I look forward to doing it next year with a few more adventures under my belt.

2009 - In a nutshell

Well, I haven't been on for... oh... lets just say "Awhile".

To sum up the last year:

Jan: did my first ice climbs, had fun though it was easy WI3 about 5-6 pitches.

Feb: Got out to Devil's Lake to Climb. Had to hike though about a foot of snow and climb on wet cold quartzite. Was "fun"

March: Took a fun trip to the Red River Gorge. Made some new friends and saw some old friends. Took my largest whipper to date, about 20-25 feet. I love my #3 C4.

April: Climbed, ran, trained. Started planning for my summer trips. Canada and Wyoming.

May: Climbed, ran and trained harder.

June: Remolded the house, installed new floors.

July: Headed west to Wyoming: What a grand adventure: Full trip report here.

August: Headed up to Canada and shitty shitty weather....

September: Had fun climbing and relaxing.

October: Same as September, climbed when I could and relaxed.

November: Headed down to the Red River George and had a very humbling experience on a 5.7. And started building my home climbing wall.

December: Finished up the bouldering wall . Started to work on a home training program for myself. (Still working on it...) My dog, Scout, had mega surgery to replace her left knee. She is currently 75% recovered.

If I had to pick one picture to sum up 2009 it would be:

Summit of Pingora in the Wind Rivers range

2010 so far:

January 2010: Started climbing more serious Ice. I hope to start leading ice next season.

February 2010: First blog post since 2008....

Last Weekend:

I broke my "No Lake on Sunday" rule cause I wanted to get out, climb, relax and couldn't do it on Saturday. We hit up Major Mass an out of the way crag and Devil's Lake that boasts the tallest climbs at the lake. Well worth the effort to trek there.
First climb was Jungle Gym. The guide book says three pitches, but if you watch your rope drag, you can do it in one, using almost your rope (unheard of at the Lake). I knew the climb was long and I was tempted to take most of my rack. However, I didn't and only took about 6-7 cams and some stoppers. I wish I had taken more runners however. There is a short section of hang jams (about 2 jams total) but fun non the less. I placed my red Camalot to protect this section, somehow while climbing past it, I kicked it with my foot and it got pushed further back in the crack. (do'h) I didn't learn of this until my second came up and tried to clean it. it was a lost cause. Crap.

After lunch I did however devise a plan to get it out. The cam wasn't "over cammed" just pushed back with no way to grab the trigger. Luckily enough the cam was near a ledge that could be accessed from a scramble. And I came back after lunch while Brian and Diane where working on some anchor work.

Freeing ole' red required:

1 Metolious nut cleaning tool.
1 2' long stick
Climbing tape

2 .75 Camalots (to aid up to stuck cam)
2 runners as make shift aiders.

The cam was a bit higher then when I orgionaly placed it, So I self aided to it. I taped the nut tool to the stick and fished it out. About 30 minutes later free cam. Made my day.

I took a go at Kenosis. A lovely Devil's 5.4 It was very fun to climb and even more fun to protect.
The bottom part (see picture left) was a #2 Camalot, #5 Camalot, #6 Camalot, and two stoppers. Once above the top of this 40ish foot section was a little different. There was about 40 more feet of climbing. Protected by #1 C3+ an iffy stopper which I equalized. Then a #4 Microstopper and... a #5 stopper. Made for some fun run out. The guide book says "awakward blocks up top" Which I think translates too. Lots of mantle moves and no pro. I recall being atleast 15 feet over my last piece (this was my double anchor of the C3 and nut) at one point. More then I like to be, ever. not that I don't mind running stuff out, but I like to avoid 30+ foot falls.

Getting back in to things...

All summer I trained for Canada. Now I need to get back in to training for me. (I think of them in one of the same however) Back to running and lifting and watching my food I still have hopes of reaching 200lbs by the end of the year.

Starting with my poison ivy, these last few months have taken a toll on my body. I still have some residuals from the ivy, including some breakouts every now and then. I managed to pull a hamstring while doing squats. With the seasons changing over my knee has developed it's twice a year dull hurt while it's moving. (I had a ski accident when I was 12 and cracked my knee cap and tore a couple ligaments, was not my fault either. I was standing in a lift line and got plowed by a lady who could not stop.) It's hoping to be a good winter though.

I'm planning on hitting Devil's Lake and working on my aid climbing skills (for fun) and winter climbing skills. The winter climbing skills are in preps for (hopefully) next year trip to the Canadian Rockies.

Might even be dabbling in some vertical ice...

Back from Canada

Well, got back from Canada a few weeks ago. Due to weather, no summits. However, I did manage to key things. First. I had fun. We got in three days of climbing out of five in the area. The first day we made an attempt on Mt. Andromeda via the normal route (Grade I-II). Which the glacial ice fall defeated us (twice).
Followed by an attempt at Mt. Edith Cavell via the East Ridge (5.2). We made it to about 9000' before poor snow and ice conditions turned us back. Friday we attempt at Mt. Temple via the normal route. (Grade I). Again about 9000'+ we turned back. The following pic basically sums up my thoughts on the conditions on Mt. Temple.

The second key thing was learning. I learned a lot and I cannot wait to go back into the moutains. Hopefully sooner then later.

Less then one month:

Less then one month till I go north to take a go at the alpine climbing . I have the technical ability, now lets see if my body listens to what my brain tells it.

Training has been occupying my time more so then anything else (well work, but you know what I mean). Climbing has become about endurance, lap after lap after lap in the gym. Sometimes in boots with a pack, others just in normal shoes. Either way... it's been great training for this.

The first climb with be the East Ridge of Edith Cavell 5.2 and I think something like 5800 Feet the line we will be attempting will follow the ridge on the left skyline.

The second planned line will be the classic NW Ridge of Mt. Sir Donald. 5.4 and I think something like 1800 feet. Higher ridge on the right skyline.

It's up to mother nature now, hopefully she'll let the weather be decent for our accents and descents.

Saturday day of fun.

4:45 AM on Saturday I awoke to a nice rain, dogs and Kristen were still sleeping. I txted Brian and Diane, "Still riding". with in a few seconds I got back a "Why not". 15 minutes later I was off with my bike to the meeting spot. With the raining coming down we took off on the trail. This was the start of an all out 3is hour ride though the rain. Apparently the rock/sand/gravel they lay is salty, very salty. Gross, and when it got in your eyes... Sucked.

As they say... Doesn't have to be fun for you to be having fun.

I ended up having to ride slower because of the salt getting in my eyes and the lack of a back break for some odd and unknown reason. Around the 15 mile mark I had a pack of Gu and we turned around. 30 miles in about 2:45:00 not bad. By the time we got back I had some how managed to acumulate close to 1lbs of sand on the back of my jersey.

After the ride we headed up to Adventure Rock to climb. Laps, nothing but laps. 3 - 4 laps in one go. Some on lead some just TR. Was tired after a couple hours of that, nothing over 5.9 mind you, just a lot of climbing and some bouldering.

After climbing we had a lunch of a sandwhich, trail mix and a few other things on the way back to our Park that we do our routine:
10 pushups.
20 Russian Twists (25lbs)
25 Hindu Squats
10 Burpies
60 Medicine ball toss (10lbs)
6 Turkish Get-ups (we do it with a 35lbs punching bag)
5 Jump and heaves - Jump to a pullup
10 under-overs - Jump over a bar and then go under it.
20 Swings (alternating arms) with 25 lbs.

Did that 3 times.

After that it was off to the Forset Perserve for some running and laps with boots & pack. During the run, my left arm ended up cramping so bad I had to slow it down and walk some of it. I think this was because I didn't hydrate enough. (As Camelbak says... Hydrate or Die). Laps with boots and a 30 lbs pack was fun, but I wish the hill was bigger.

Monday night hell... but in that good way.

My Monday evenings...

Got home from work and had a snack of Peanut Butter granola bars with chocolate Gu and a banana. Then headed for what Brian has dubbed our Dojo, which is a park near his house.

He created this workout and goes as follows:
Warm up run 5-7 minutes, medium pace.
50 Mountain climbers
5 minuets of stretching.

Repeat the following routine 3 times.
(Each set about 10 minutes, with 2 minute rest between sets. )
10 pushups.
20 Russian Twists (25lbs)
25 Hindu Squats
10 Burpies
60 Medicine ball toss (10lbs)
6 Turkish Get-ups (we do it with a 35lbs punching bag)
5 Jump and heaves - Jump to a pullup
10 under-overs - Jump over a bar and then go under it.
20 Swings (alternating arms) with 25 lbs.

Cool down run 5-7 minutes.

Go home, recovery shower (Hot water, cold water - repeat)

Sleep

Recovery...

I'm still recovering from the ivy and it's aftermath from over a month ago, However, it's getting better. Right after the Ivy had dried up, my hands got "something" I ended up at acute care where they gave me steroids. The steroids weren't fun, made me eat a lot and put on water weight, almost over night. As the next few days progressed my hands started to show signs of improvement, however when my elbows broke out in something else, I went to the dermatologist. He wasn't exactly sure what it was or where it came from, but gave me some mega topical cream to shotgun it, My hands and elbows have cleared up and the scares are healing.

I haven't been training as much as I had hoped to these last few weeks. But I'm breaking in to a new routine. Get up at 4:45 and go super set/ lift for 30 minute and 10-15 minutes on the stair master. I got my hang board mounted and using it, when I want to get in a quick 10-15 minute work out, anymore and I think i'd fuck up my hands on that thing. With all that said... 8 more weeks!

Stuff...

So the ivy is fading, however I developed hives on the tops of my hands. WTF? Seriously. Will this ever end? I'm on meds, which are seriously screwing with me. Retaining water and make me HUNGRY! Stupid steroids. But I think they are helping. Though it's put a strain on my training/climbing. Last Thursday I woke up with, that afternoon I was in an acute care center. the doctor had no really clue, gave me a list of things it could be... some where just amusing.

Saturday, they next to nill, so I went and climbing in the morning and then joined Robin and some of her friends for some more climbing. Followed by beer.

Sunday, I got a workout by helping Kacey pack up a U-haul and drive it back up to Chicago. Sometime good'ole work is different way to train. you use muscal that you never even knew you had.

Anywho... I'm hoping that this shit clears up soon, I have to get back to some serious lifting and climbing.

last couple weeks.

The previous weekend I had gone on a bike/run. My plan was 12 miles on bike, followed by 5K run around Old School and then bike back home. On my way to Old School I tried to find a way while avoiding the busy roads. Short story here, I ended up in the Des Plains river after miss judging the depth of a creek I was trying to cross. Didn't fall by any means, just a weeee bit deeper then I thought. About up to the middle of my wheels, shoes wet and ya... almost went over the handle bars. Well... somewhere on this short cut finding quest, I rub up against something and my right shin/calf and right thigh broke out in poison something rather the other. I took a week off of doing anything. Walked the dogs a couple times, but nothing drastic. Saturday I hit up the climbing gym. Oh boy was I sore. Went on a 2 hour semi-hard bike ride some of it thought a thunderstorm.

This week, back to lifting, running and doing laps at the climbing gym.

On a side note, I finally was able to pick up my ice axe, crampons, softshell pants etc etc...

Climbed the Wobbly Dihedral

I got my redpoint on the Wobbly Dihedral. The climb went smooth, though after the friction part I took a second to shake some blood back in my feet.

I ended up placing 7 pieces on the line and running out the last 15 section of "slab". This is for sure going on my repeat list and for those that haven't climbed it a Devil's Lake must do! (Running out the top section)

I did a few other lines, Curving Crack, which I plan to redo to climb it cleaner, and a fun line (I thought it was fun anyway) a 40 foot tall, 8-9 feet deep chimney, called PHTOOY! It was a fun and really ugly line. You had to climb to the back of it to place a piece, then back to the front of the chimney to move up. Repeat that a couple times. I ended up having to runout the last 15 feet or so because I didn't have an easy way of getting back to the back of the crack. Also ended up in an awkward position throwing a heal hook around the outside of the chimney, above my head for balance. That was different.

This years goals...

The last few months I have been hella busy with home, work and climbing, my apologizes to all for not posting. Here's a recap: I took a couple trips down south to the Red River Gorge and Southern Illinois to do some climbing. Had fun, got in a few good leads including my redpoint of "Puppet Master" a 9+ that defeated me the year before. The climb starts with a few hard and very committing moves. You are 15 feet off the ground before you can get in your first good piece. Needless to say this could mean broken ankles if you are not careful. (I opted to have a crash pad just in case)

There have been a number of trips to Devil's lake as well. Weather has been decent for them, but sometimes we had snow (in april) though it didn't last very long. I took a shot at the "Wobbly Dihedral" a 9 (some would argue 9+) at Devil's Lake. For those of you that have never climbed at Devil's Lake, the grades are way off from most of the rest of the country, most argue "Very f-ing sandbagged". (So a 5.9 here would be a 5.10a/b/c/d other places, yes grades are all subjective, but just saying) This started one of two of my years goals. Climbing at my limit on gear (trad), this means falls. I trust my gear and I am not worried. On the Wobbly Dihedral I took to falls before passing the "friction only" section of the climb. Once past that, the crack got wet and very slick due to the green stuff that was growing in it. (You can see in the top part of the picture to the left) After trying to climbing past this a couple more times, I bailed off the climb. I'll be back and that rock ain't going anywhere.

The second of my goals is to break in to Alpine climbing. This means heavy training. Two weeks ago I started, I added squats, usually about 50 - 75 a session and double the amount of "step ups" as well. Heavy cardio is on the menu as well. Living in the flat low lands will make training for Alpine very challenging. I have using a modified version of what Mark Twight talks about in "Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light Fast & High". (For those of you that don't know Mark Twight, he is the founder of Gym Jones. ) As well as input from some climbing veterans that I climb with.
Fun nights at the climbing gym have been replaced with laps with a summit pack loaded with about 15 lbs of "gear" and now boots instead of climbing shoes. As it was recently put to me:

"The goal in climbing is to avoid failure; the goal in training is to pursue failure."

Climb on.

Stuffs up and coming

Still getting over being sick and somehow hurting my ankle. Last weekend I headed to Adventure rock with Brian, Diane and Matt. Good time climbing, I FINALLY stuck a boulder problem I have been working on... wait... did I just get excited about an indoor boulder problem? WTF?

Anywho...

March will be busy. Traveling for work and Kristen Spring break. Next weekend i'm heading to the Red River George to climb and have some of that yummy Miguels pizza. The following week i'll be down in Albion and Climbing at Drapers Bluff with some folks.
Two great (Midwestern) climbing crags in 2 weeks! So lucky :)

My Effing ankle needs to fully heal! BAH!

For Jessa:

Ya... it's a been a while. Been busy, basically run, climb repeat. (Throw work in there as well). Down to 212.5 lbs today!

But besides that.... Been sick. Last Friday, I had a fever of 101.9 F. The works, hacking up green shit, joint paint, etc I'm still not fully recovered. To add insult to injury I twisted my ankle last night pretty bad...

So now, my focus is recovery, getting back up to 100% before March. I have two trips planned, one to the Red River Gorge and the other to Southern Illinois.

I'll post more when I'm finally off my meds.

I promise Jessa ;)

End of the plateau...

Many a hands began to scan around for the next plateau
Some say it was Greenland, and some say Mexico
Others decided it was nowhere except for where they stood
But those were all just guesses, wouldn't help you if they could...

Greenland and Mexico sound like lovely places to go, Greenland for climbing and Mexico for climbing and relaxing... however, not what i'm trying to get across. I have be stuck on a plateau for close to 4 months, finally... got below 215 lbs. a great numbers of factors, played in to this. Running around 20-25K a week, lifting 2-3 nights a week and climbing 2-3 days a week.

Most recently I started to take a page from Mark Twight books and a few other folks (friends/partners) on training, which I believe was the "last proverbial straw". Basically... insanity is the key I believe. Take a workout and think... ok... what can I do to make people look at me with a "What the fuck" face. works... seriously...

Weekend: Kicking it up a notch.

Saturday around 7:00 AM with the temperature around -5F (according to the digital readout in my Jeep) and a reported wind chill of -22F, Brian and I went running. The first 5K or so was cold, the numbing kinda cold, the last part of the run. The total run was about 10K, with some laps up and down the sled hill. The amusing part was the frost on me. From the sweet going though the gloves and dry shirt I looked like a snow cone.
After the run I indulged in some yummy blueberry pancakes and spent some time around the house with Kris and the pups followed by an evening of curry... mmm...curry.
Sunday AM was at the climbing gym where I put 20lbs in my summit pack and climbed and traversed. Climbing with 20lbs on your back is something else... something to work on.

Been a while...

Sorry folks it's been a while since I last posted, I have been busy training. Lately it's been how "insane" can I go. 10 - 15K runs though ice and snow sometimes reaching 1-2' drifts, laps up and down snow covered sled hills (usually after or during a 10K) and 5k runs broken with a hour of weights have been the norm. Get pieces of motivation , inspiration and fucking determination from readings and friends have occupied my time. This last weekend 5 miles at an 8:20 pace seemed like nothing. However that was followed by a trip to the climbing gym where I continued the S&M that has become my weekly training. It looks like it's going to get harder and harder. Adding weights while I run and do the incline and running on shitty and shitty ground (to help build core strength) have been a blast. Climbing goals have helped fuel this level of training as well as just self determination to "Party on".

I should add that the Rock & Ice Bloggers brawl ended with me in 6th place, not bad if I do say so myself. Thanks to those that voted!

Year ending...

Well just a couple more days till the end of the year. Over the last few weeks I have had some realizations and set some new goals. My goal to hit 199 by the end of the year, is not going to happen. However new goal... 190 by my Birthday. The last month I have been running and training harder that I have in a long while if ever. Starting to push distances like 10k - 12k and even 14-15k distances with out stopping, and sometimes though fresh snow. Which makes 12k feel like 20k.
Big goals set for '08 some I have mentioned some I will be keeping to myself, for now. Goals at first can seem insane, however the more and more you work towards them, the less and less insane they become.
If I don't get to posting again before the end of the year, Happy everything to everyone.